Piccolino, 33 Pepper Row, Chester

A Roman city - Deva - with chain-restaurant Italian food and the occasional re-enactment society centurion clanking by on the pavement across the road. One of them had forgotten to take off his wrist watch.

Anyway, Piccolino. I ate at a branch in Manchester a couple of months back and thought it quite good but a little expensive. The food is lovely, though, as ever, you're likely to eat better if you find an independent. The girls and I started with a thin pizza base doused in garlic butter and covered in passata, plus a basket of warmed focaccia served with bottles of extra virgin and balsamic vinegar to drizzle. Delicious.

Mains were: penne with meatballs for Lucifer; troffiette with torn chicken and asparagus for The Blonde; pollo valdostana (pictured) for me. This was chicken breast coated in very fine breadcrumbs, topped with mozzarella and stuffed with Parma ham. Good taste and texture to everything, chicken especially good. It came with a few slices of roasted pepper and a very light tomato sauce. Steamed spring veg with basil butter was a side order.

Unusually, the girls decline desserts, opting to share a plate of pralines. I had affogatto - a vanilla scoop in a shot of amaretto and with cold espresso poured over: easily one of the best puddings I've ever eaten, a brilliant taste combination with warmth and a good finish from the amaretto and amazing bitterness from the coffee.

£60 when a further double espresso and soft drinks were added, so not a cheap feed.

Cappuccino count: 7/10. No complaints about the food, except that there isn't quite enough of it for the price. Staff very polite and obliging.